The MFT table and the router is almost too sweet for this use the precision and repeat-ability insure each rail is exactly the same, which is critical for building doors square. Dial in the cutter depth and then have at it. Pick your shoulder cut location and set up a stop on the MFT fence. First, set your router up on the guide rail. There’s high dollar machinery for this step too, but I found the MFT table to be a fantastic substitute, with my OF1000 router riding on the rail with a ¾” dado bit making a single pass per tenon side. Be sure to leave extra length for the tenons on each end. A few minutes with a sharp chisel and you have a nice clean bottom dado. This is best done with a shaper, but I wanted to keep this job limited to tools most carpenters have access to, so I used the table saw. I do this before I cut the rails to exact length because it saves some time. Next we cut a dado into the stile and rail stock to accept the panels. I also inspect the lumber and will sometimes compromise the grain direction to bury a defect in the glue face. In fact, some of the grain actually turns at the end and runs the same direction as the piece it’s laminated to. I know that this photo doesn’t show that opposed grain as well as it might (see photo, right)-we got pretty lucky with vertical grain being…well…vertical. When laminating, it’s best to orient your lumber so the grain is opposed. Maybe this is why a lot of wood doors are made from fir. The species is known for limited movement-great stability, and distinct hardness for a ‘softwood’. I try to select vertical grain materials, and Douglas Fir is a perfect choice. Without further chatter let’s build some doors.įirst, to build doors from stock, you have to laminate your stiles and rails.
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